Ramadan; A month like no other.

Thanks to Damien Brejou for photograph

The holy month of Ramadan is observed by over 1.5 billion muslims across the world.  In the United Kingdom, we might know a colleague, neighbour or friend who is fasting but what do we really know about this month beyond the ‘not eating, not drinking’ part?  Many may ask ‘what’s the point?’, and that’s exactly what I’m learning here in Tunisia.

Fasting during Ramadan between sunrise and sunset is obligatory for Muslims, as one of the 5 pillars of Islam it holds a deep significance for both practicing and non-practicing followers of Islam.  It is a time to become closer to Allah (SWT), to be charitable and think of others, to self-reflect and to seek forgiveness for wrong doing.  KEEP READING!   Don’t dismiss this post as irrelevant to non-muslims - each of us as volunteers in Tunisia, irrespective of nationality or religion have learned something during this month, both about Islam and ourselves.

‘Wish for your brother what you wish for yourself’

In the weeks leading up to Ramadan, supermarkets across Sousse were used by associations as a venue to collect food for under-privileged local people.  My association AJMEC also organised this initiative and managed to collect enough food for 15 families.  The generosity of local people and families who themselves don’t have a disposable income was overwhelming.  They were also surprised and touched to see foreigners collecting to help Tunisians – in these moments labels and nationalities dissolve into insignificance. 

A good friend of mine offered me some wise words in the first days of Ramadan.  I complimented him on the fact that he regularly gives to the elderly asking for money on the street.  His reply was short and simple, ‘it’s not my money, it’s Gods’.  Whether you believe there is a God or not, what a beautiful philosophy!  There is so much greed and selfishness in this world, so many people destined to live a life of hardship because they were born into it.  To relinquish one’s ownership of material possessions and to openly share all that you can because you recognise a human being in need is something we should all aspire to.

I didn’t really know what to expect during Ramadan with regards to day to day life during this month.  On the first night I travelled to Tunis to watch a football match.   My train was delayed which meant I was arriving just before Iftar (opening of the fast), knowing that everything would be closed I worried about what I would eat/drink as I too was fasting.  Luckily my friend there explained the situation to his sister who prepared the most delicious feast for me at the last minute.  Later at the stadium I watched a group of around 70 men make their evening prayer.  When you’ve gone all day without food or water in soaring temperatures, it’s easy to understand why even after the fast opens you want to give thanks. 

'Zara' in Tunis 

When fasting, you have the luxury of knowing that in a few hours, you will have a good meal and plenty of water.  It makes you remember that not everyone is so lucky.  I think about the parents who don’t know when they will next be able to provide food or water for their children.  I think about how they explain this to them and it fills me with sadness.

Family life also becomes even more important here in Ramadan.  Opening the fast with food lovingly prepared is such a special moment, every time.  Yes my family are in Scotland but every time I’ve opened the fast here I’ve felt part of a family; with the volunteers at home, in the Youth Centre and at home with Tunisian people

Opening the fast with young people in Dar Chabeb, Kalaa Kebira

The values lived in this sacred month remind us of how we should treat one another all year.  Sharing everything, being caring and kind, grateful and patient.  If only every month could be   like Ramadan.......

'A feeling of grief now fills my heart;
As the month of Ramadhan will soon depart.
So lets make a start and worship Him alone;
Now that the worth of this month is known.'  

(Taken from the poem 'Ramadan is Here' by Asma Sadia'

11 must do things in Tunisia

Visit Tunisia

The original title for this post was '10 must do things in Tunisia'.  In my planning I thought the best idea was to brainstorm as many 'must have experiences' as possible and then narrow it down to the top ten.  Big mistake.  

I've tried to include names of places, restaurants etc but many of these experiences you will stumble upon yourself, and that's what will make it truly memorable.  These are the moments captured from the 'first dates' of travel, the ones you will tell your grandchildren about and that will live with you forever.




The Sahara by Camel

Travelling to the Sahara is one of those things in life that you never envision yourself doing.  It seems like an impossible dream, too distant to even imagine.  The reality really hit me whilst sitting at the top of a sand dune, the sun was setting and we watched an elderly woman make her way home through the desert.  As we made our way back to the bus on our camels, my friend Lucia and I took each others hands, both laughing and smiling incredulously about what we were experiencing.  The family who took us out on the camels tried to make extra income by selling small handcrafted dolls.  I handed one of the girls who looked about my age a 5 dinar coin and took one of the dolls.  Moments later she was knocking on my window looking at me and to the sand where she had dropped the coin.  Then by some miracle she found it and we both smiled and waved to each, celebrating together.  I'll never forget this girl.  I watched her until we drove away and she disappeared into the distance.

Couscous at home

I realise that if you're coming to Tunisia on holiday for a week it might pose a bit of a problem to invite yourself to someones home.  However, you haven't tried real Tunisia cooking until you do.  In the home you will also get a taste of family life and a quick and intense insight into Tunisian culture.    Failing that, the next best thing (that I've tried so far in Sousse) is La Fiesta, I had couscous with fish but they also prepare it with lamb if you prefer.     

Stop.  And listen to the 'adhan'

To me, there is nothing more beautiful than the sound of the call to prayer.  In all of the chaos and noise of life, it has the ability to make everyone stop and centre themselves again.  It reminds me of why I'm here, and reminds me of why I wanted to come here in the first place.  I know a lot of people like to hear this the most at morning prayer but I like it at 'isha', night time prayer.  At this time the mosque is lit up and looks beautiful.

Take a 'louage'

This is the most common method of public transport, cheaper than a private taxi and will stop anywhere you flag it down.  They take a little getting used to, you need to know the route or at least the last stop to avoid getting completely lost.  I could count on both hands the number of times I've seen tourists take the louage.  I assume this is because taxi's are still relatively cheap here in comparison to the UK so why bother?  Well if like me you like to get a sense of life and local people I'd recommend this.  I was fascinated by the exchange of money, the way the driver is able to remember who has paid, everyone saying hello or good morning as they enter, calling the driver 'brother'.  Oh, it's also a little faster than the driving we are used to at home.... and there are no seatbelts.  You'll survive. Do it.

Visit a hammam

I absolutely adore the hammam.  It's a great day out with your girl friends, is cheap and leaves you feeling replenished and as soft as butter!  
The hammam is a public steaming bath house and in Tunisia you can find them everywhere.  Go first thing in the morning when it's fresh and clean and you can get a really intense scrub (if your skin is burning that's normal!) from one of the women working there.  You can have your hair washed, a massage and waxing too.  Enjoy!

Dance to the Darbouka

The darbouka is the traditional Tunisian drum with a very distinctive sound that pulsates through your entire body, to your fingertips and toes -  you'll be dancing before you know it.  

I have some incredible memories accompanied by the sound of the darbouka.  Whilst travelling around Tunisia as part of a group, we listened to it for hours and everyone sang together.  You can see 3 generations in one room, all singing the same song.  It's really incredible.

Something sweet in Monastir

I love all of the Patisseries in Tunisia, even the bad ones are pretty amazing.  They are so good that even when you eat 3 in a day, that normal sense of guilt at such gluttonous behaviour is barely a whisper.  However, you haven't lived until you eat from a patisserie in Monastir and this is not an exaggeration. 1 dinar = 1 slice of heaven.

Tea, scenery and shisha in Sidi Bou Said

Sidi Bou Said has a charm and beauty that you can't describe and that photographs do a great injustice.  You could never imagine that just twenty minutes away from the busy capital there is this little paradise.  Wander through the little cobbled streets, take photographs of the beautiful blue and white buildings and just soak up the tranquility.  You'll find a cafe which over looks the coast, enjoy a traditional tea and shisha here.

Discover the Souk

In my city we don't have a lot of fresh food markets and the ones that we do tend to be full of overpriced organic for the upper class.  This is one of the reasons it's such a treat for me to visit the souk here, it's a totally different way of living.  It's so much more social than just filling your basket and waiting for the checkout operator to tell you the price.  It's noisy, vibrant and full of life.  It's also much cheaper than supermarkets and better quality produce.  

Watch the sunset over Tunis

I completely fell in love with Tunis the second I arrived.  I sat on Avenue Bourguiba watching the world pass by, remembering all the imagery from the revolution on this very street.  But what really left me speechless was the view from the rooftop bar in Hotel El Hana International.  We arrived there around 5pm and watched the sunset, the cafes fill up with people drinking tea and smoking shisha -   I can't describe the feeling I had in this moment but it will stay with me forever. 

Meet the children

Tunisian children are the most kind, sweet and friendly little treasures you could ever find.  They are so polite to one another, so respectful of their parents and so full of happiness.  They bring light to all that is dark.

So what are you waiting for???

Have a good meal - Chaiyya t3aiba

On arrival in Tunisia, I really wasn't sure what to expect when it came to the cuisine.  I knew that couscous was the national dish and kept reading about something used regularly in cooking called 'harrisa', but other than that I had no idea.  The guidebooks advised all the usual travel advice, 'don't drink the water, don't eat salads, don't eat street food, beware of seafood' etc. etc.   Thankfully, I have ignored 99% of this advice, because had I absorbed all this paranoid chitchat I could have missed out on some of the most delicious food I've ever tasted.  From fast food to traditional dishes which can take 5 hours to make; there is 'no love sincerer than the love of food'.

For starters


One of the things I love about Tunisian food is the variety.  For example when you eat out in a restaurant or at someones home, you will never just find one dish on the table, there will be several so you can enjoy lots of flavours and textures.  There is always bread on the table wherever you eat, however personally I think the best bread here is 'tabouna' which is a traditional round bread.  This video explains how it is made;

And of course with the tabouna, you should have harissa, olive oil and olives.  Harrisa is a kind of paste which is made from red chillies, tomatoes and other spices.  It's used in cooking, on sandwiches and if you're brave, to dip bread into!  I have developed a kind of harissa addiction, it's definitely something which I'll be loading up my suitcase with on my return to Scotland!  There is a saying here, that a man can judge how much his wife loves him based on the quantity of harissa used in cooking, so if the food becomes bland the love is fading.  Also good for dipping tabouna into, is salad mechouia which is grilled peppers and chillies with tomatoes and garlic and oil.  

Also on the table you're likely to find 'chorba' (soup) which of course will be at least a little spicy and 'brik' which is a pastry stuffed with potato, parsley, egg and sometimes cheese or tuna.  Both of these are very popular in Ramadan and are quite simple to make, although they vary so much from house to  house and region to region.

Although it's really tempting, I've learnt here not to overdo the starters because you will most certainly eat two portions of your main dish!

Main Course

Most people are aware that couscous is the national dish of Tunisia and most people tell me that in Tunisia it's the best of all of North Africa.  Well since I arrived I've eaten a lot of couscous, kilo's in fact.  I've made it  at home, I've tasted it in restaurants, from a packet and fresh.  You can eat it with fish, chicken or lamb and every vegetable you can imagine.  There is one very important rule when it comes to couscous in Tunisia, one that you must never forget!  The couscous made by your mother is always the best!  Another tip is if you  would like to try making couscous the traditional way, don't start at 8pm  - unless you want to eat at midnight!

What I really love about Tunisian cuisine is the sharing aspect.  I know all my friends are laughing right now reading this because I normally don't like sharing food.  However, couscous, ajja and many other Tunisian delights are simply made for sharing.  This reflects the general generosity and selflessness of the people living here.  So incredibly polite and familiar.

Fast Food

One of my favourite things about Tunisia is that I have yet to see a McDonald's.  They have their own fast food; fresh, spicy, tasty and cheap.  This little treasure is called a 'chappati'.  I don't want to know how many calories it has or think about how many I've eaten in 3 months!  I like it best with omelet, cheese, tuna, salad and harrisa!

Something Sweet

If you're already on a flight here to sample some of the aforementioned, I wouldn't blame you and you won't be disappointed.  I've only touched the surface of a subject which deserves far more attention.  I'll end with something for those of you with a sweet tooth.  My friends and me are constantly taunted by the delicious scents coming from the patisseries.  It's rare that we can resist!  For only 500 millems (25p) you can enjoy a little piece of heaven.  Sorry Scotland, I don't miss Greggs at all!

Watching and learning from a professional!

My Tunisian Love Story

The Wests perception of Muslim countries is often based on media myths and stereotypes. When I informed people in Scotland that I was coming to live in Tunisia for a year, it was clear that many had little or no understanding of Islam or of the variety of cultures which exist within it. People assume that in Muslim countries as a westerner you will be shunned and prevented from living your life in your own way. I can’t speak about every Muslim country, I can’t even speak about all of Tunisia, but in my experience, this couldn’t be further from the truth.

In Scotland, we take pride in our multi-cultural society and like to think of ourselves as welcoming and hospitable to people from all walks of life. However after just 2 months in Tunisia, I don’t feel as sure of this. Yes, in comparison to many countries Scottish society is very warm and friendly, but it is far from perfect.

From swift exchanges in the street, to working relationships, visiting family homes and travelling in a group, I have experienced the beauty of the Tunisian character in a variety of dynamics. If I can take even a pinch of this back to Scotland with me, I’ll have achieved what I want from my European Voluntary Service.

Each day I spend in Tunisia is like a short film about the beauty of kindness. In the opening scenes I am in a ‘louage’ (shared taxi) travelling to the youth centre. A young girl realises I speak a little Arabic and we talk about each other’s lives, she tells me about her studies, about her hopes for the future, and I share mine. We exchange numbers and I invite her to my cultural presentation in the youth centre. Scene two. I’m in a small shop buying a bottle of water and the man serving me asks how I am, smiling and amused when I respond in Arabic. He has some traditional sweets which he shares with me, I tell him thank you brother. Scene three. I lose my way in the medina and can’t remember the way to the louage station. I meet a girl outside the university who is going home for lunch. She walks with me for twenty minutes to the louage station and when I say goodbye, I see her return in the same direction we came. She went out of her way to help me, a complete stranger. She didn’t just point me in the right direction; she made sure I was okay. This is just the beginning.

When I first arrived I ventured to the medina to buy a gift for a friend’s birthday. Here I met Marwan, who after 10 minutes of charming bargaining banter reduced his original price for a ring by 90%. He invited me to sit in his small shop and we continued our chat, laughing and smiling, sometimes not really understanding each other’s words but our sentiments were clear. He brought me a mint tea from a nearby café and then we said our goodbyes. Weeks later, I passed his shop by chance and he called my name. I was so surprised that he remembered me and so happy to see him again. He gave me a beautiful pair of earrings, the traditional ‘Hand of Fatimah’ as a gift. He doesn’t know if I will return to his shop or expect anything from me, he just wanted to make me feel welcome.

I have been fortunate enough to be welcomed into many people’s homes. To spend time with a family when you are so far from your own is an emotional and happy experience. It isn’t formal like in Scotland, as soon as you enter the home it’s like a warm embrace from an old friend. Tunisian children are beautiful, well behaved and just completely delightful. Though in many respects our lives are far removed from one another and cultures so different, Tunisian people have a way of removing all the labels until you are just two human beings, with no preconceived ideas, just sincerity.

In the Youth Centre I am so fortunate to work with such wonderful people. The director has an open door policy which reflects the general ambience of Darchabeb, Kalaa Kebira. If you need help or advice, there is always someone there to support you. In Tunisia it’s difficult to distinguish between a group and a family, because the relationships are so strong.

Yes I know some people will read this and say I am still in my ‘honeymoon’ phase and they would be right, but that won’t change the impact these first months have made on me as a person. You see, my love story is about a people, not one person. The Tunisian people have swept me off my feet and my heart beats for them.

Okhti

This is for Palestine, Ramallah, West Bank, Gaza.

In my first month of European Voluntary Service, I spent time considering which projects in the youth centre and in the local community needed additional support and where I would spend my working week.  During this time I also thought about combining my greatest passion, humanitarian issues, with in my opinion, the best vehicle to inspire people, cinema.   My plan is to screen a wealth of films, focusing on a variety of topics which will encourage responsible citizenship and compassionate young adults.  I hope to develop this by working with other clubs in the youth centre to have a programme of events for each topic. 
The first topic is one that is personally very close to my heart, and a subject which receives very little media attention despite continual violations of international law and human rights abuses.  Palestine.

On the 30th March every year people from all over the world remember Palestine.  'Land Day' commemorates the events of 1976, when many people will injured and even killed during marches against plans for the explanation of illegal settlements.  In Darchabeb, Kalaa Kebira, the young people created a mural in their football grounds to mark this day.  Listening to the music of British political rapper Lowkey, it was such a happy moment for me to share with such inspiring young people.

We then screened the movie 'Miral', based on a true story about the life of Rula Jebreal growing up in Palestine, followed by a discussion about peoples feelings about the film.  The screening of the film picked up a lot of local press attention thanks to my mentor Jalel Babay.

The next film we screened was 'The Lemon Tree' directed by Israeli Eran Riklis.  Another emotional highly film about a widow who fights to keep her grove of lemon trees when it is threatened by the Israeli Security Forces.  Both films offer insight into the daily struggles of Palestinians at the hands of their occupiers, and everyone was extremely touched by the stories and powerful imagery.

In my experience in Scotland, it's near impossible to mention the issue of Palestine in any governmental body without fear of being labelled as anti-Semitic or extremist.  I've found that in the youth centre, we are fortunate that we can discuss this issue, with peace in our hearts and not aggression, only hoping for a better future for Palestinians.

I hope to learn from the local youth about issues which they are passionate about, I'm sure we will continue to find similarities between us.

Existence is resistance.  Long Live Palestine.

Marhaba Tunisia

I arrived in Tunisia 29 days ago, it's flown by and despite having 336 days remaining, I'm all too aware of quickly this experience will pass. As well as my own personal journal, I'm keeping this blog to reflect on my time here in Sousse, and to give others an idea about European Voluntary Service (EVS).

On arrival I was collected by Mounir from my host organisation and two other volunteers. After an emotional departure, it was great to see friendly faces and to be so warmly welcomed. I can't remember very much about the journey from the airport in Tunis to Sousse, my new home for one year. In the first few days I found the enormity of being away from home for such a long time difficult to deal with. I didn't expect to feel homesick at all, but the first week was definitely the most difficult. One month has passed now, and although I miss my family and friends, I know I'm exactly where I need to be.

My host organisation is called Ajmec, a voluntary organisation which promotes intercultural exchange through a variety of activities, working with Tunisian youth aged 15-30.  My activities are mainly based in Kalaa Kebira, a small town outside of Sousse.  'Dar Chebeb' (meaning House of People) is the youth centre where I work.  After attending a variety of activities to get a sense of what projects I can get involved with here,  I've now finalised my weekly schedule with Mounir (Director of Ajmec) and my mentor here, Jalel.  From mural painting, to calligraphy and language lessons, working in the centre for disabled children and the school in the hospital, I can be sure that no two days will be the same!

I'm living with two other volunteers in an apartment, one is from Lithuania and the other is from Bulgaria.  We all speak English which in some aspects is great, we've been able to build strong friendships very quickly and learn a lot about each other.  However it's not so good for working on my Tunisian Arabic.....  Our neighbours are also volunteers from France and Italy.  Having other volunteers here to support you and share experiences with is so important and builds your confidence quickly.  We also get to learn about each others countries, cultures and customs.  For example I organised an Afternoon Tea Party, this short video highlights the depth and beauty of cultural exchange......

Okay maybe not.  But, it does show how close we all are after a very short time together, and how lucky I am to be surrounded by such sweet people!

And what about Tunisia?  It's home.  I could never have imagined how comfortable I would feel here so quickly.  The sound of the Adhan (call to prayer), the busy medina, the shisha cafes (many men only), the tea, the family home and spirit of family life, cous cous, the politics after the revolution and the Tunisian flag, always in sight.  This is my 'habibi'(beloved) Tunisia.