Have a good meal - Chaiyya t3aiba

On arrival in Tunisia, I really wasn't sure what to expect when it came to the cuisine.  I knew that couscous was the national dish and kept reading about something used regularly in cooking called 'harrisa', but other than that I had no idea.  The guidebooks advised all the usual travel advice, 'don't drink the water, don't eat salads, don't eat street food, beware of seafood' etc. etc.   Thankfully, I have ignored 99% of this advice, because had I absorbed all this paranoid chitchat I could have missed out on some of the most delicious food I've ever tasted.  From fast food to traditional dishes which can take 5 hours to make; there is 'no love sincerer than the love of food'.

For starters


One of the things I love about Tunisian food is the variety.  For example when you eat out in a restaurant or at someones home, you will never just find one dish on the table, there will be several so you can enjoy lots of flavours and textures.  There is always bread on the table wherever you eat, however personally I think the best bread here is 'tabouna' which is a traditional round bread.  This video explains how it is made;

And of course with the tabouna, you should have harissa, olive oil and olives.  Harrisa is a kind of paste which is made from red chillies, tomatoes and other spices.  It's used in cooking, on sandwiches and if you're brave, to dip bread into!  I have developed a kind of harissa addiction, it's definitely something which I'll be loading up my suitcase with on my return to Scotland!  There is a saying here, that a man can judge how much his wife loves him based on the quantity of harissa used in cooking, so if the food becomes bland the love is fading.  Also good for dipping tabouna into, is salad mechouia which is grilled peppers and chillies with tomatoes and garlic and oil.  

Also on the table you're likely to find 'chorba' (soup) which of course will be at least a little spicy and 'brik' which is a pastry stuffed with potato, parsley, egg and sometimes cheese or tuna.  Both of these are very popular in Ramadan and are quite simple to make, although they vary so much from house to  house and region to region.

Although it's really tempting, I've learnt here not to overdo the starters because you will most certainly eat two portions of your main dish!

Main Course

Most people are aware that couscous is the national dish of Tunisia and most people tell me that in Tunisia it's the best of all of North Africa.  Well since I arrived I've eaten a lot of couscous, kilo's in fact.  I've made it  at home, I've tasted it in restaurants, from a packet and fresh.  You can eat it with fish, chicken or lamb and every vegetable you can imagine.  There is one very important rule when it comes to couscous in Tunisia, one that you must never forget!  The couscous made by your mother is always the best!  Another tip is if you  would like to try making couscous the traditional way, don't start at 8pm  - unless you want to eat at midnight!

What I really love about Tunisian cuisine is the sharing aspect.  I know all my friends are laughing right now reading this because I normally don't like sharing food.  However, couscous, ajja and many other Tunisian delights are simply made for sharing.  This reflects the general generosity and selflessness of the people living here.  So incredibly polite and familiar.

Fast Food

One of my favourite things about Tunisia is that I have yet to see a McDonald's.  They have their own fast food; fresh, spicy, tasty and cheap.  This little treasure is called a 'chappati'.  I don't want to know how many calories it has or think about how many I've eaten in 3 months!  I like it best with omelet, cheese, tuna, salad and harrisa!

Something Sweet

If you're already on a flight here to sample some of the aforementioned, I wouldn't blame you and you won't be disappointed.  I've only touched the surface of a subject which deserves far more attention.  I'll end with something for those of you with a sweet tooth.  My friends and me are constantly taunted by the delicious scents coming from the patisseries.  It's rare that we can resist!  For only 500 millems (25p) you can enjoy a little piece of heaven.  Sorry Scotland, I don't miss Greggs at all!

Watching and learning from a professional!

My Tunisian Love Story

The Wests perception of Muslim countries is often based on media myths and stereotypes. When I informed people in Scotland that I was coming to live in Tunisia for a year, it was clear that many had little or no understanding of Islam or of the variety of cultures which exist within it. People assume that in Muslim countries as a westerner you will be shunned and prevented from living your life in your own way. I can’t speak about every Muslim country, I can’t even speak about all of Tunisia, but in my experience, this couldn’t be further from the truth.

In Scotland, we take pride in our multi-cultural society and like to think of ourselves as welcoming and hospitable to people from all walks of life. However after just 2 months in Tunisia, I don’t feel as sure of this. Yes, in comparison to many countries Scottish society is very warm and friendly, but it is far from perfect.

From swift exchanges in the street, to working relationships, visiting family homes and travelling in a group, I have experienced the beauty of the Tunisian character in a variety of dynamics. If I can take even a pinch of this back to Scotland with me, I’ll have achieved what I want from my European Voluntary Service.

Each day I spend in Tunisia is like a short film about the beauty of kindness. In the opening scenes I am in a ‘louage’ (shared taxi) travelling to the youth centre. A young girl realises I speak a little Arabic and we talk about each other’s lives, she tells me about her studies, about her hopes for the future, and I share mine. We exchange numbers and I invite her to my cultural presentation in the youth centre. Scene two. I’m in a small shop buying a bottle of water and the man serving me asks how I am, smiling and amused when I respond in Arabic. He has some traditional sweets which he shares with me, I tell him thank you brother. Scene three. I lose my way in the medina and can’t remember the way to the louage station. I meet a girl outside the university who is going home for lunch. She walks with me for twenty minutes to the louage station and when I say goodbye, I see her return in the same direction we came. She went out of her way to help me, a complete stranger. She didn’t just point me in the right direction; she made sure I was okay. This is just the beginning.

When I first arrived I ventured to the medina to buy a gift for a friend’s birthday. Here I met Marwan, who after 10 minutes of charming bargaining banter reduced his original price for a ring by 90%. He invited me to sit in his small shop and we continued our chat, laughing and smiling, sometimes not really understanding each other’s words but our sentiments were clear. He brought me a mint tea from a nearby café and then we said our goodbyes. Weeks later, I passed his shop by chance and he called my name. I was so surprised that he remembered me and so happy to see him again. He gave me a beautiful pair of earrings, the traditional ‘Hand of Fatimah’ as a gift. He doesn’t know if I will return to his shop or expect anything from me, he just wanted to make me feel welcome.

I have been fortunate enough to be welcomed into many people’s homes. To spend time with a family when you are so far from your own is an emotional and happy experience. It isn’t formal like in Scotland, as soon as you enter the home it’s like a warm embrace from an old friend. Tunisian children are beautiful, well behaved and just completely delightful. Though in many respects our lives are far removed from one another and cultures so different, Tunisian people have a way of removing all the labels until you are just two human beings, with no preconceived ideas, just sincerity.

In the Youth Centre I am so fortunate to work with such wonderful people. The director has an open door policy which reflects the general ambience of Darchabeb, Kalaa Kebira. If you need help or advice, there is always someone there to support you. In Tunisia it’s difficult to distinguish between a group and a family, because the relationships are so strong.

Yes I know some people will read this and say I am still in my ‘honeymoon’ phase and they would be right, but that won’t change the impact these first months have made on me as a person. You see, my love story is about a people, not one person. The Tunisian people have swept me off my feet and my heart beats for them.

Okhti