On arrival in Tunisia, I really wasn't sure what to expect when it came to the cuisine. I knew that couscous was the national dish and kept reading about something used regularly in cooking called 'harrisa', but other than that I had no idea. The guidebooks advised all the usual travel advice, 'don't drink the water, don't eat salads, don't eat street food, beware of seafood' etc. etc. Thankfully, I have ignored 99% of this advice, because had I absorbed all this paranoid chitchat I could have missed out on some of the most delicious food I've ever tasted. From fast food to traditional dishes which can take 5 hours to make; there is 'no love sincerer than the love of food'.
For starters
One of the things I love about Tunisian food is the variety. For example when you eat out in a restaurant or at someones home, you will never just find one dish on the table, there will be several so you can enjoy lots of flavours and textures. There is always bread on the table wherever you eat, however personally I think the best bread here is 'tabouna' which is a traditional round bread. This video explains how it is made;
And of course with the tabouna, you should have harissa, olive oil and olives. Harrisa is a kind of paste which is made from red chillies, tomatoes and other spices. It's used in cooking, on sandwiches and if you're brave, to dip bread into! I have developed a kind of harissa addiction, it's definitely something which I'll be loading up my suitcase with on my return to Scotland! There is a saying here, that a man can judge how much his wife loves him based on the quantity of harissa used in cooking, so if the food becomes bland the love is fading. Also good for dipping tabouna into, is salad mechouia which is grilled peppers and chillies with tomatoes and garlic and oil.
Also on the table you're likely to find 'chorba' (soup) which of course will be at least a little spicy and 'brik' which is a pastry stuffed with potato, parsley, egg and sometimes cheese or tuna. Both of these are very popular in Ramadan and are quite simple to make, although they vary so much from house to house and region to region.
Although it's really tempting, I've learnt here not to overdo the starters because you will most certainly eat two portions of your main dish!
Main Course
Most people are aware that couscous is the national dish of Tunisia and most people tell me that in Tunisia it's the best of all of North Africa. Well since I arrived I've eaten a lot of couscous, kilo's in fact. I've made it at home, I've tasted it in restaurants, from a packet and fresh. You can eat it with fish, chicken or lamb and every vegetable you can imagine. There is one very important rule when it comes to couscous in Tunisia, one that you must never forget! The couscous made by your mother is always the best! Another tip is if you would like to try making couscous the traditional way, don't start at 8pm - unless you want to eat at midnight!
What I really love about Tunisian cuisine is the sharing aspect. I know all my friends are laughing right now reading this because I normally don't like sharing food. However, couscous, ajja and many other Tunisian delights are simply made for sharing. This reflects the general generosity and selflessness of the people living here. So incredibly polite and familiar.
Fast Food
One of my favourite things about Tunisia is that I have yet to see a McDonald's. They have their own fast food; fresh, spicy, tasty and cheap. This little treasure is called a 'chappati'. I don't want to know how many calories it has or think about how many I've eaten in 3 months! I like it best with omelet, cheese, tuna, salad and harrisa!
Something Sweet
If you're already on a flight here to sample some of the aforementioned, I wouldn't blame you and you won't be disappointed. I've only touched the surface of a subject which deserves far more attention. I'll end with something for those of you with a sweet tooth. My friends and me are constantly taunted by the delicious scents coming from the patisseries. It's rare that we can resist! For only 500 millems (25p) you can enjoy a little piece of heaven. Sorry Scotland, I don't miss Greggs at all!
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