The Wests perception of Muslim
countries is often based on media myths and stereotypes. When I
informed people in Scotland that I was coming to live in Tunisia for
a year, it was clear that many had little or no understanding of
Islam or of the variety of cultures which exist within it. People
assume that in Muslim countries as a westerner you will be shunned
and prevented from living your life in your own way. I can’t speak
about every Muslim country, I can’t even speak about all of
Tunisia, but in my experience, this couldn’t be further from the
truth.
In Scotland, we take pride in our
multi-cultural society and like to think of ourselves as welcoming
and hospitable to people from all walks of life. However after just
2 months in Tunisia, I don’t feel as sure of this. Yes, in
comparison to many countries Scottish society is very warm and
friendly, but it is far from perfect.
From swift exchanges in the street, to
working relationships, visiting family homes and travelling in a
group, I have experienced the beauty of the Tunisian character in a
variety of dynamics. If I can take even a pinch of this back to
Scotland with me, I’ll have achieved what I want from my European
Voluntary Service.
Each day I spend in Tunisia is like a
short film about the beauty of kindness. In the opening scenes I am
in a ‘louage’ (shared taxi) travelling to the youth centre. A
young girl realises I speak a little Arabic and we talk about each
other’s lives, she tells me about her studies, about her hopes for
the future, and I share mine. We exchange numbers and I invite her
to my cultural presentation in the youth centre. Scene two. I’m
in a small shop buying a bottle of water and the man serving me asks
how I am, smiling and amused when I respond in Arabic. He has some
traditional sweets which he shares with me, I tell him thank you
brother. Scene three. I lose my way in the medina and can’t
remember the way to the louage station. I meet a girl outside the
university who is going home for lunch. She walks with me for twenty
minutes to the louage station and when I say goodbye, I see her
return in the same direction we came. She went out of her way to
help me, a complete stranger. She didn’t just point me in the
right direction; she made sure I was okay. This is just the
beginning.
When I first arrived I ventured to the
medina to buy a gift for a friend’s birthday. Here I met Marwan,
who after 10 minutes of charming bargaining banter reduced his
original price for a ring by 90%. He invited me to sit in his small
shop and we continued our chat, laughing and smiling, sometimes not
really understanding each other’s words but our sentiments were
clear. He brought me a mint tea from a nearby café and then we said
our goodbyes. Weeks later, I passed his shop by chance and he called
my name. I was so surprised that he remembered me and so happy to
see him again. He gave me a beautiful pair of earrings, the
traditional ‘Hand of Fatimah’ as a gift. He doesn’t know if I
will return to his shop or expect anything from me, he just wanted to
make me feel welcome.
I have been fortunate enough to be
welcomed into many people’s homes. To spend time with a family
when you are so far from your own is an emotional and happy
experience. It isn’t formal like in Scotland, as soon as you enter
the home it’s like a warm embrace from an old friend. Tunisian
children are beautiful, well behaved and just completely delightful.
Though in many respects our lives are far removed from one another
and cultures so different, Tunisian people have a way of removing all
the labels until you are just two human beings, with no preconceived
ideas, just sincerity.
In the Youth Centre I am so fortunate
to work with such wonderful people. The director has an open door
policy which reflects the general ambience of Darchabeb, Kalaa
Kebira. If you need help or advice, there is always someone there to
support you. In Tunisia it’s difficult to distinguish between a
group and a family, because the relationships are so strong.
Yes I know some
people will read this and say I am still in my ‘honeymoon’ phase
and they would be right, but that won’t change the impact these
first months have made on me as a person. You see, my love story is
about a people, not one person. The Tunisian people have swept me
off my feet and my heart beats for them.
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| Okhti |
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