Thank you Tunisia

The day to say goodbye came far too quickly and there was no way to prepare myself.   I said goodbye to so many friends and colleagues and people who have treated me as a member of their family.  Soon I'll say goodbye to my home and my wonderful flatmates ( a word which sadly doesn't do them justice!).  I don't want to imagine the moment when my feet will leave Tunisian land, the very country that grounded me, that shaped me.

My leaving presentation was full of surprises and I was so incredibly touched and overwhelmed by all the videos, messages, poems, dance shows, gifts and guests.  Firstly, we planted a lemon in the 'Palestine corner' of the youth centre I helped to create.  Then it was time for me to make a final speech and show a short video about my experiences here.  It's so frustrating that there are no words to describe the year, no words to show how much you all mean to me.  I hope that one day, somehow, I can repay you all for every kind and humble gesture.

This is my goodbye - 

We're guilty in the U.K of believing that 'our way is best', that living any other version of life than our own equates to inequality, oppression, narrow-mindedness and a variety of other self-indulgent arrogances.  The best thing I, and any other volunteer can gain from this experience, is to appreciate that your logic, your morals and values and beliefs do not necessarily translate across the world -  and to date, no country is nearing perfect.   I've learned so much in Tunisia, from Tunisians, from their culture and Islam.  They are far richer in many ways than we are at home.  So take the best.

As well as traditional carpets and clothes and ceramics, I'm taking back some priceless gifts which will stay with me for a lifetime.  The importance of family, modesty, the strength and character of women, hospitality and the presence of children in your life makes everything worthwhile!

Last March I predicted in my journal how quickly my year volunteering in Tunisia would pass.  However I could never have predicted the people I would meet and how every single one of them would become a part of the person I am.

Thank you to each and every person I have met in this year.  To AJMEC Association, Xchange Scotland and the British Council for making it possible.

Tunisia 2012: A Transition Period

I know that physically, I look like a completely different girl to the one who left Edinburgh in March.  My level of attention to my appearance is probably about 10% of what is was.  Gone are the days of fake tan, false eyelashes and skyscraper heels. Gone, and good riddance I might add! 

Even in my personality I'm told there is a change, but it's been harder for me to recognise.  I've always known who I am on the inside, it was being comfortable enough to reflect that on the outside that was difficult.  

The pressure I felt as a young woman in the U.K was not only about aesthetics, although that in itself is enough to make anyone crumble quicker than a dropped compact.  It was the daily rat race to perfection, to have a dazzling night life, dream job, dream wardrobe, planned holidays, sporadic weekends and of course, not forgetting to photograph every single moment for Facebook, just in case others were in doubt that you do in fact love your life.  Or not.   

I probably fooled most.  Thank God I didn't fool myself.  Coming to Tunisia was one of the best decisions I've made in my life.  

One of the first things that struck me about Tunisia, is the lack of advertisements.  Where on earth was all the stuff I HAD to buy?  And where were those perfect half naked women that were put on this earth to make the rest of us mere humans feel bad about ourselves?  Everything that was so real, so part of my everyday life at home, had dissolved somewhere between the North Sea and North Africa.  There also isn't the same culture of celebrity and gossip magazines.   After 6 months without it, when I was faced with a copy of 'Heat'  magazine, I remember feeling genuinely offended by what was being said to me, both implicitly and explicitly.   Telling me 21 ways to have higher self-esteem whilst humiliating the poor reality TV star who has put on a few pounds.    

Now it goes without saying that there are pressures on women here too, each society has it's own problems. However as a 'westerner' coming here, it's like a cleansing of the mind.  I feel like I've regained a human sense of reality, with real human values at the core.  So what's important?  The same things that deep down we all care about in the U.K, family, friends and being a good person.  The difference is that here, these things take priority, without exception.  The western world teaches us to focus on the things on the surface and that that will make us happy on the inside.  In Tunisia, it's the contrary.

I watch teenage girls here going to school, in their trainers, jeans and blazer, looking liked fresh-faced children, which is what they are.  They're not plastered with make-up and dressed like girls in their twenties.  We need to take a good look at our youth in the U.K, at our young women and ask ourselves, how does our society nurture them?  Because as long as we continue to churn out images of unrealistic beauty and scathing attacks on women deemed 'too fat' or 'ugly', the '21 ways to better self-esteem' will be lost in the bottom of the make-up bag.  And I think, they deserve better.


This post is dedicated to my dear friend Lucia Spata.  'Each friend represents a world in us, a world possibly not discovered until they arrive.'


Interestesed in doing something similar?

Useful Links  - British Council - European Voluntary Service
                      - AJMEC Association, Tunisia
                       - Xchange Scotland

Which way next?

 Young Tunisians share their hopes for the future.

There has been much written in the news recently amid growing concerns about the increasing numbers of Tunisians risking their lives in search of a better future in Europe and beyond.  In September, a fishing boat carrying between 100 and 140 people, sank 12 miles away from it's final destination, the Italian island of Lampedusa.  Only 56 people survived.

In my time in Tunisia, I have met many young people who dream of going to Europe, Canada and America.  When I read about tragedies like this, it makes me think of them.  Their names, their faces, their hopes and expectations about a life outside of Tunisia.  The people who lost their lives last month, all deserved far more than what life has dealt them.  It's all too easy to judge their situation, to assume that their bad fortune in life is solely down to themselves.  The question I ask myself is, if I was born into their circumstances, would my choices be any different?  When you risk your life to find employment, is that really a choice at all?  Or the last and only option you feel is available?  A young man interviewed by the BBC said that risking his life to get to Europe didn't scare him, 'I'm already dead here'.

Unemployment is currently at 17.6% and the impact is not only on the financial circumstances of young people as we see in Lampedusa.  The  situation in Tunisia is not one which can change overnight.  However if people choose to leave, they should be able to do so safely and full informed about the realities of where they are going.    Associations like AJMEC are providing an invaluable service to young people and Tunisia as a whole.  Giving them an opportunity to travel, see different cultures and share life experiences with young Europeans by taking part in exchanges and programs like European Voluntary Service.  

Talking to friends here about incidents like Lampedusa, I wanted to know their thoughts and feelings about their future as young Tunisians.  All agreed that there is a lack of opportunities for young people here and all had friends or family who had left themselves to find work elsewhere.  Some wanted to stay in Tunisia, others want to go to America or Europe.  'Inchallah'  (God willing) they will find their way.

Here are their stories.

Haroun is 20 years old and currently studying to be a nurse.  He's one of the few young men that I've spoken to who wants to stay in Tunisia.  Fiercely proud of his home city, Sousse, he is under no illusions about life outside of Tunisia.....

Recently a boat carrying around 100 Tunisian people trying to reach the Italian island Lampedusa capsized and 44 people lost their lives.  What do you think about young Tunisian people risking their lives to go to Europe?

H:  Going to Italy is something that most of Tunisian youth crave for. First and foremost, the current situation in Tunisia is kind of deteriorating and miserable. Secondly, they unfortunately think that money would be given easily there and life would be easier.

What was your dream job when you were growing up?

H:  When I was a kid, I always dreamt of a perfect and bright future as a plane pilot or a doctor. But then,when I saw the rotten situation in the country, I started losing hope and lost my dreams..

What do you want to do when you finish your studies?

H:  Had I finished my studies, I would struggle to find a position that fits my level of studies, however it might be difficult. Meanwhile, I would try to look for an alternative job instead of remaining jobless.

What do you think are the main challenges facing young people in Tunisia?

H:  First of all, the level of education in Tunisia is mediocre and incomparable to education in other developed countries so one wouldn’t achieve anything of a use. Then, it’s a little bit tough and not everyone is able to finish their studies. And finally, family ‘s situation may be one of the hindrances that oblige one to assume responsibility within his family and let go of his studies.

Do you have friends or know people who have left Tunisia to live somewhere else?

H:  I know a few. Some of them got married with an older lady and he’s not quite happy in his new life. I know some who paid to go there and practically lost all his money. I also know someone who went there illegally and now he’s having a tough and shameful life.

Do you see yourself living in Tunisia?

H:  Well, I like this question. You may be surprised of my answer after what I’ve stated, yet, I’m happy to a point that you can’t imagine in here. I adore my city, Sousse. Everything I need is available. Some people may envy us for the life we’re giving here. Anyway, I’m grateful for the life I’m leading and I don’t want to force myself to cope with some difficult living standards for I am a reasonable person

What do you think the government can do to improve opportunities for young people?

H:  I personally think that the government can’t do anything actually, It’s not like it’s got a magic stick or something to make the situation brighter and better in overnight. However it can help them to act creatively instead of turning them down or at least try to work with other foreign programs synchronically. Politics is not really my thing so I can’t fully give my opinion about what the government can or can’t do it or what should happen.

Arij 

Recently a boat carrying around 100 Tunisian people trying to reach the Italian island Lampedusa capsized and 44 people lost their lives. What do you think about young Tunisian people risking their lives to go to Europe?

A:  well, first of all may their souls rest in peace and may God be with their families! However, I think it’s stupid beyond words to risk their lives to go anywhere illegally! Not to mention so unfair to their families who will never recover from their loss. I’m a huge believer in staying home. I think everyone should try his best to succeed and make the best of his life at home; without having to flee to any other country where he may or may not get the life he always hoped for! 

What was your dream job when you were growing up?

A: I always wanted to be a teacher or a pilot ( ok to be honest I wanted to BE a teacher and MARRY a pilot) 

What do you want to do when you finish your studies? 

A:  after finishing my MA I’m hoping to be an English university Teacher, an American civilization teacher to be specific.

What do you think are the main challenges facing young people in Tunisia?

A:  Well I think the main challenge facing some of the young Tunisian students is THEIRSELVES! They need to change their mentalities and work on themselves first to turn the country into a better place. To be fair though, Tunisian students don’t have THAT many job opportunities. I think Tunisia needs more investments so that more jobs can be provided. Currently though, I think the country is headed for the right direction and hopefully we’ll get there. 

Do you have friends or know people who have left Tunisia to live somewhere else?

A:  I have some cousins who left the country a long time ago to live in France.  I think they left the country, legally of course, for better job opportunities. They are happy I guess, but they’re always homesick!

Do you see yourself living in Tunisia?

A:  Of course, where would I else be? As I said previously, I’m a huge believer in staying home. I think if I’m working to become a university teacher, I better be a successful one I my own country!  If I could leave, I would! But only temporarily. I would never leave the country for good. I think I would go to the US only to make some research for my PHD, god willing, and then I would be back to Tunisia.  I think the government should look for better investments so that youngsters won’t look for jobs elsewhere!

Maali

Everyone knows very well the problem of unemployment in Tunisia, and every day this problem is repeated so because of all that the Tunisian unemployed always think outside he will find the good work and good conditions of living.

We can say that it is a dream to travel and improve the financial situation of the unemployed and same for his family.  I am against this act and at the same time I'm not sure that Tunisian government will help this people and this young persons to stay here.  These people are not passive they are so ambitious but with the wrong way because they didn't have possibilities and solutions to find a good way for their future.

In the future i want to be a professor of Spanish.  I would like to work in the unviersity and learn another language and I want to create an agency of travel.

I think that we face unemployment , lack of entertainment and societies and an absence of encouragement from the Tunisian government.

I have some people of my family who live in France and Belgium, they are working there.  I want to live in Tunisia but I would also like to travel and see a new people , enjoy my free times, my life with other cultures.  Only I would like to continue my studies in Spain but then return home.
In the reality sometimes I say 'I think that I want to leave Tunisia' but sometimes I don't because there is my family, my life, my friends. 

I  think in this politic and economic environment the Tunisian government cant do any thing for its people and maybe we should wait for our political future because there is relation between economic life and political life in this country. 

Melik

I think young Tunisian who are risking their lives to go to Europe are a little bit stupid because if they studied and had their degree they won't think bout that they'll go to Europe with a normal way. 


My dream job when i grow up is to be a physiotherapist and a professional basketball player .

After finishing my studies i want to Marry have a family to care about a nice job and of course playing basketball all day long. 

The main challenges facing young people here in Tunisia is to find a job you know, many students finish their studies then spend 5 or 6 years searching for a job and they don't find it so the only solution is to go to other countries.

After finishing my studies i want to marry have a family to care about a nice job and of course playing basketball all day long!  I know some people who left Tunisia to study in Europe and they are happy.  I see myself living here but i think it's better if i try to live out of Tunisia for a bit first.

If i could leave i won't hesitate, my dream is to go to USA and to play basketball there.

11 must do things in Tunisia

Visit Tunisia

The original title for this post was '10 must do things in Tunisia'.  In my planning I thought the best idea was to brainstorm as many 'must have experiences' as possible and then narrow it down to the top ten.  Big mistake.  

I've tried to include names of places, restaurants etc but many of these experiences you will stumble upon yourself, and that's what will make it truly memorable.  These are the moments captured from the 'first dates' of travel, the ones you will tell your grandchildren about and that will live with you forever.




The Sahara by Camel

Travelling to the Sahara is one of those things in life that you never envision yourself doing.  It seems like an impossible dream, too distant to even imagine.  The reality really hit me whilst sitting at the top of a sand dune, the sun was setting and we watched an elderly woman make her way home through the desert.  As we made our way back to the bus on our camels, my friend Lucia and I took each others hands, both laughing and smiling incredulously about what we were experiencing.  The family who took us out on the camels tried to make extra income by selling small handcrafted dolls.  I handed one of the girls who looked about my age a 5 dinar coin and took one of the dolls.  Moments later she was knocking on my window looking at me and to the sand where she had dropped the coin.  Then by some miracle she found it and we both smiled and waved to each, celebrating together.  I'll never forget this girl.  I watched her until we drove away and she disappeared into the distance.

Couscous at home

I realise that if you're coming to Tunisia on holiday for a week it might pose a bit of a problem to invite yourself to someones home.  However, you haven't tried real Tunisia cooking until you do.  In the home you will also get a taste of family life and a quick and intense insight into Tunisian culture.    Failing that, the next best thing (that I've tried so far in Sousse) is La Fiesta, I had couscous with fish but they also prepare it with lamb if you prefer.     

Stop.  And listen to the 'adhan'

To me, there is nothing more beautiful than the sound of the call to prayer.  In all of the chaos and noise of life, it has the ability to make everyone stop and centre themselves again.  It reminds me of why I'm here, and reminds me of why I wanted to come here in the first place.  I know a lot of people like to hear this the most at morning prayer but I like it at 'isha', night time prayer.  At this time the mosque is lit up and looks beautiful.

Take a 'louage'

This is the most common method of public transport, cheaper than a private taxi and will stop anywhere you flag it down.  They take a little getting used to, you need to know the route or at least the last stop to avoid getting completely lost.  I could count on both hands the number of times I've seen tourists take the louage.  I assume this is because taxi's are still relatively cheap here in comparison to the UK so why bother?  Well if like me you like to get a sense of life and local people I'd recommend this.  I was fascinated by the exchange of money, the way the driver is able to remember who has paid, everyone saying hello or good morning as they enter, calling the driver 'brother'.  Oh, it's also a little faster than the driving we are used to at home.... and there are no seatbelts.  You'll survive. Do it.

Visit a hammam

I absolutely adore the hammam.  It's a great day out with your girl friends, is cheap and leaves you feeling replenished and as soft as butter!  
The hammam is a public steaming bath house and in Tunisia you can find them everywhere.  Go first thing in the morning when it's fresh and clean and you can get a really intense scrub (if your skin is burning that's normal!) from one of the women working there.  You can have your hair washed, a massage and waxing too.  Enjoy!

Dance to the Darbouka

The darbouka is the traditional Tunisian drum with a very distinctive sound that pulsates through your entire body, to your fingertips and toes -  you'll be dancing before you know it.  

I have some incredible memories accompanied by the sound of the darbouka.  Whilst travelling around Tunisia as part of a group, we listened to it for hours and everyone sang together.  You can see 3 generations in one room, all singing the same song.  It's really incredible.

Something sweet in Monastir

I love all of the Patisseries in Tunisia, even the bad ones are pretty amazing.  They are so good that even when you eat 3 in a day, that normal sense of guilt at such gluttonous behaviour is barely a whisper.  However, you haven't lived until you eat from a patisserie in Monastir and this is not an exaggeration. 1 dinar = 1 slice of heaven.

Tea, scenery and shisha in Sidi Bou Said

Sidi Bou Said has a charm and beauty that you can't describe and that photographs do a great injustice.  You could never imagine that just twenty minutes away from the busy capital there is this little paradise.  Wander through the little cobbled streets, take photographs of the beautiful blue and white buildings and just soak up the tranquility.  You'll find a cafe which over looks the coast, enjoy a traditional tea and shisha here.

Discover the Souk

In my city we don't have a lot of fresh food markets and the ones that we do tend to be full of overpriced organic for the upper class.  This is one of the reasons it's such a treat for me to visit the souk here, it's a totally different way of living.  It's so much more social than just filling your basket and waiting for the checkout operator to tell you the price.  It's noisy, vibrant and full of life.  It's also much cheaper than supermarkets and better quality produce.  

Watch the sunset over Tunis

I completely fell in love with Tunis the second I arrived.  I sat on Avenue Bourguiba watching the world pass by, remembering all the imagery from the revolution on this very street.  But what really left me speechless was the view from the rooftop bar in Hotel El Hana International.  We arrived there around 5pm and watched the sunset, the cafes fill up with people drinking tea and smoking shisha -   I can't describe the feeling I had in this moment but it will stay with me forever. 

Meet the children

Tunisian children are the most kind, sweet and friendly little treasures you could ever find.  They are so polite to one another, so respectful of their parents and so full of happiness.  They bring light to all that is dark.

So what are you waiting for???